July has been a promising culinary tour across Austin’s establishments without ever stepping out of the city. Our food critic, Matthew Odam, experienced a gastronomic journey that transported him to an Italian spring night, a tropical beach, and even a trip down the memory lane. Here is a list of the top 10 best things he enjoyed during his food and drink adventures in the Austin culinary scene this July.
“A taste of Rome in Austin,” declares Odam, describing the deliciously silky ace of arrabbiata sauce that covers the tender ricotta dumplings, all dusted with the umami kick of parmesan cheese.
Filled with a blend of rum, bourbon, pineapple, and apricot, the fruity cocktail is perfect for those seeking a forgettable encounter. As Odam puts it, “You can almost feel the sunburn on your cheeks.”
For those who love the combination of salty and sweet, this dish will please your palate. Thin slices of potatoes are fried, coated in cocoa powder, and layered over an earthen-toned blackened koji ice cream, all drizzled with a pecan miso butter chocolate sauce.
One of the best aspects of Italian-inspired dishes is their simplicity, and this dish combines Point Reyes Toma cheese sauce, fresh sweet peppers, and mint marigold to create a beautiful symphony of flavors.
This ceviche got Odam’s attention mainly because of its vibrant citrusy flavor and the cultural expression that it embodies. Ezov dresses its crudo with the pleasant flavors of pistachios, pomegranate, and orange blossom, a culinary heritage of Israel and the Levant region.
The flavor complexity of this dish, which boasts a rich pesto made from tomato leaf, pecorino, arugula, pistachios, and hazelnuts, left Odam longing for more. “It awakens and soothes in equal measure,” he commented.
The risotto delivers a unique combination of acorn squash and tangy marinated peaches, encircled by a subtle peach syrup, and crowned with a perfectly seared duck, which tasted even better the next day.
Odam confessed, his all-time favorite at Interstellar was the tender shreds of lamb seasoned with pepper, salt, garlic, and folded back into their own juices finished with seasoned rice vinegar.
As one of the dishes served in the six-course tasting menu at Nixta Taqueria, the cured hamachi with smoked trout roe sitting in vibrant kumquat and orange aguachile truly made an impression on Odam. He calls it the best raw fish dish he has eaten this year.
Odam’s most nostalgic dish this month was the Rabbit roulade at Olamaie. It not only delighted his palate with a brilliant mustard sauce, glazed carrots, and pickled mustard seeds but also evoked the memories of dining with his late parents due to its nostalgic presentation.
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