Feasting through Austin with Food Critic Matthew Odam
July was a gastronomical delight for Austin American-Statesman‘s food critic, Matthew Odam, who spent the entire month savoring the culinary wonders of the city. From fresh pasta to exotic cocktails, his journey took him from Italy to the Mexican coast, without once leaving Austin. Here are the 10 best things he ate (and drank) at the city’s restaurants.
Gnocchi alla vodka arrabbiata at Bufalina ($18)
Starting the journey in Rome, Odam savored Bufalina’s silky Gnocchi alla vodka arrabbiata, slicked with mild arrabbiata sauce and topped with parmesan cheese. This dish, he says, transported him to an Italian night in the spring.
Paradise City at Drink Well ($14)
Next, Odam relished the tropical vibes of Paradise City at Drink Well, a powerful concoction of rum, bourbon, pineapple, and apricot that had him forgetting whether he was on his second or third sip.
Chocolate chips and ice cream at Emmer & Rye ($14)
At Emmer & Rye, the salty sweet combination of chocolate chips layered over earthy blackened koji ice cream, drizzled in pecan miso butter chocolate sauce, was a hit for Odam.
Strozzapreti at Epicerie ($24)
The simplicity of the seasonally inspired, Italian-influenced Strozzapreti at Epicerie captured Odam’s attention. He wished he knew how to perfect the creamy Point Reyes Toma cheese sauce himself!
Ceviche at Ezov ($18)
At Ezov, the culinary expression in a dish of crudo, dressed with pistachios, pomegranate, and orange blossom, caught Odam’s palate.
Tomato leaf risotto at Foreign & Domestic ($27)
The Tomato leaf risotto at Foreign & Domestic was another revelation. Odam describes the dish, enfolded by a pesto sauce, as awaking and soothing in equal measure.
Duck risotto at Intero ($42)
Intero’s Duck risotto was more about taste than looks for Odam. The dish, with its flawless combination of flavors starring a well-seared duck, definitely left a mark.
Pulled barbecue lamb at Interstellar BBQ ($34/lb.)
Odam’s personal pick at Interstellar BBQ was the slow-smoked, pulled lamb shoulder, seasoned with salt, pepper, and stirred into its own flavored juices.
Hamachi crudo at Nixta Taqueria (n/a)
Pleasure also waited within the six-course tasting menu served at Nixta Taqueria, especially the Hamachi crudo spiced with smoked trout roe, sitting in a brilliant kumquat and orange aguachile.
Rabbit roulade at Olamaie ($45)
Finally, a dinner at Olamaie offered a splendid rabbit roulade that took Odam down memory lane, reminding him of special occasion meals with his late parents. The mustard sauce-covered roulade was a taste of the late ’90s dining Odam fondly remembers.
With a month full of such taste wonders, Austin’s culinary world surely deserves applause for keeping the city’s gastronomical spirits high!