Austin is buzzing with excitement as acclaimed chef Paul Qui, best known for winning Top Chef, makes a grand return to the local culinary scene. After an eight-year hiatus, Qui opened his new restaurant, Top Roe, on Wednesday, October 23. Located at 120 W. 5th St., Austin, TX 78701, Top Roe specializes in temaki, a unique style of sushi that is hand-rolled into a cone shape and meant to be eaten without chopsticks. This new venture marks Qui’s first solo endeavor in the Capital City since he closed his flagship restaurant, Kuneho, in 2017.
Top Roe aims to offer a more relaxed dining experience amidst Austin’s array of high-end Japanese restaurants. Qui himself notes, “I’m really excited to be working on Top Roe. It gives us the opportunity to elevate sushi culture and put our stamp on what a Japanese restaurant can be.” This philosophy is reflected in the restaurant’s menu, which offers eight chef-curated handroll sets, including options featuring vegan ingredients, Wagyu, and uni. One of the highlights is the Hon Maguro set, utilizing bluefin tuna that Qui dry-ages on-site.
Besides the handrolls, guests can explore an array of a la carte items. While there are traditional sushi offerings, Top Roe literally rolls into unexpected territory with flavors like fried oyster rolls that include remoulade, pickles, and onions, alongside a roll made with black butter-poached lobster. For those looking for plant-based options, the menu features innovative items such as mapo tofu with chile crunch and truffled mushrooms.
Qui is keen on authenticity and crafting a unique dining experience. He shares, “There are a few things we’re pioneering, like making our own soy sauce blend, pickling our own ginger, and not serving processed wasabi.” The restaurant is also committed to working with local fishmongers from the Gulf Coast to showcase fresh regional ingredients.
To accompany the temaki, Top Roe offers a selection of both hot and cold plates, featuring familiar dishes like sunamono salad and unique choices such as fries with banana ketchup. Guests can also enjoy housemade potato chips served with caviar, smoked redfish, and nori guacamole dips, perfect for pairing with the restaurant’s Japanese whiskey highballs.
Paul Qui’s journey in Austin has not been without challenges. In 2016, he faced an arrest for alleged domestic violence, which was later followed by dropped charges. This incident led to the closure of several of his restaurants, including Kuneho. Despite the setbacks, Qui has continued to thrive outside of Austin, co-owning successful projects like East Side King and Thai-Kun, while exploring various culinary ventures from a Norwegian seafood stand in Houston to fine dining in Denver.
Recently, however, Qui’s local reputation has started to rebound. A notable appearance at the Austin Food & Wine Festival drew long lines of eager fans, and in September, he collaborated with Michelin-starred chef Harold Villarosa on a new restaurant called OKO, focused on contemporary Filipino cuisine in East Austin. He has also revealed plans for another restaurant, Lea Jane’s Hot Chicken, inspired by the Nashville hot chicken trend, slated to open soon in the Domain Northside’s Rock Rose district.
The excitement surrounding Top Roe and Qui’s return marks a new chapter in Austin’s diverse food landscape. With his commitment to quality and innovation, Qui is poised to redefine the sushi experience in the city once again. As many patrons eagerly anticipate their first taste of Top Roe’s offerings, the culinary community is certainly looking forward to what else this talented chef will bring to the table.
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